The Lounge in Bacchus at the Wedgewood Hotel and Spa.

The Lounge in Bacchus at the Wedgewood Hotel and Spa.

In the Lap of Luxury at two Relais & Chateaux Hotels

Spending time at Vancouver’s Wedgewood Hotel and Tofino’s Wickaninnish Inn

  • Oct. 10, 2018 2:15 p.m.

– Story by Susan Lundy

Story courtesy of Boulevard Magazine, a Black Press Media publication

Like Boulevard Magazine on Facebook and follow them on Instagram

Charles McDiarmid loves to tell a good story, and he’s relishing this one.

As the managing director and co-owner of the Wickaninnish Inn, he is recalling his quest back in the ‘80s to build a prestigious Relais & Châteaux hotel on an outcropping of rocks owned by his family in Tofino.

He tells the story with the same exuberance and charm exhibited while showing me around me around his beautifully appointed inn — an exquisite destination hotel and restaurant on the edge of Vancouver Island’s wild west coast.

In British Columbia we are blessed to have five Relais & Châteaux properties, and I set out this summer to experience two of them. And while the Wickaninnish and the Wedgewood may seem polar opposite in experience — one built in remote Tofino and the other sumptuously revealed in a grand downtown Vancouver building — they meet in their expression of the Relais & Châteaux’s “five Cs” of charm, courtesy, character, cuisine and calm.

Founded in France in 1954, Relais & Châteaux represents the highest benchmark in hotel accommodations and fine dining, and includes a worldwide group of more than 540 privately owned hotels and restaurants. Each must pass an anonymous review process every two years in order to maintain the designation. The concept grew from the vacationing traditions of upper-class French society, who travelled to a variety of “relais” (lodges) and “châteaux” (castles) which, while different in architecture, scenery and cuisine, presented consistently high standards.

Years ago, when Charles was learning the ins and outs of the hotel industry working at the Four Seasons, most hotels were structured to serve the business traveller. However, over the years Charles heard a consistent theme: visiting businessmen would say, “When my wife and I want to get away, we go to a Relais & Châteaux.”

Charles began exploring these boutique hotels, noting they were all small, family-owned and highly regarded.

“That became my goal,” says Charles, whose family dreamed of constructing a hotel on their land that hugs Tofino’s Chesterman Beach. “In my mind, that’s what we wanted to be… that was the pinnacle.”

The goal to build a Relais & Châteaux hotel in Tofino began to take shape, but before Charles could set planning in motion, he wanted design standards for the prestigious association.

“I wondered things like — do we need to install a bidet in every bathroom?”

So he started making phone calls, and over the next two years, tried to obtain a set of Relais & Châteaux standards by calling myriad people in cities all over the world, leaving messages, sometimes phoning in the middle of the night to accommodate differing time zones. Charles finally got his answer from a heavily-accented woman in France … and he laughed for two days afterwards.

“How do you become a Relais & Châteaux hotel?” he asked.

“Well, monsieur — either you are or you’re not.”

Today the standards for Relais & Châteaux are a little more exacting, says Charles, adding, “I’ve gone out and looked at others and discovered each is eclectic … Each property is its own unique experience.”

He says: “It strikes a chord these days. Travellers want to feel that a place respects its location. It’s an experience of the destination — not an imposing of it.”

Charles, who wanted to “dance on the table” when the Wickaninnish received its designation soon after opening 1996, adds, “To me it is the pinnacle of my dream to be welcomed into the family of Relais & Châteaux.”

Wickaninnish In interior

As I stood at the window of my room at the Wickaninnish, looking out over the length of sand and pounding surf that is Chesterman Beach, I thought, “Speaking of pinnacles — this is my dream vacation.” True to its honouring of the “destination,” the Wickaninnish is a celebration of West Coast art and culture. Every single detail — from the exquisite yellow cedar table in the brand new wine cellar and tasting room to the remote-controlled curtain above the bathtub in my room — speaks to extraordinary thoughtfulness and sumptuous luxury.

Cuisine at The Pointe Restaurant is nothing short of miraculous, with the same care and attention to detail going into every dish, served in a spectacular, ocean-edged, art-infused room with floor-to-ceiling windows. This is the wild West Coast at its very finest.

In a seemingly different experience, the Wedgewood unfolds as a luxurious oasis in the heart of downtown Vancouver. Greeted at the entrance by sharply dressed valets, visitors step off of Hornby Street and enter a lavish-yet-cosy, chandelier-lit lobby that oozes with rich colours and provides a stark contrast between inside and out.

Everything from the golden-hued antiques and stately furniture to the artwork on the walls in our expansive king suite and the fine china (Wedgewood Fine Bone China!) in the stunning Bacchus restaurant gently evokes a sense of “grand English manor.”

Wedgewood Vancouver entrance

The Wedgewood Hotel & Spa has been a member of Relais & Châteaux since 2008, and general manager Glenn Eleiter says the designation “ensures our clients will experience something wonderful when they walk through our doors. It is confidence-inspiring for guests and staff alike.”

Indeed, as my husband and I sat on the private balcony of our suite, sipping glasses of rosé and enjoying the sights and soothing sounds of a park and water feature below, the experience is definitely wonderful. While the Wedgewood easily expresses all of the Relais & Châteaux five Cs, we were almost speechless at the level of service (courtesy) provided by the staff. Every need was met, often before we knew we needed it.

Glenn concurs. Of the five Cs, he says, “They are all important and it is difficult to place one ahead of another, but we receive accolades from our clients for our warm, authentic welcome and the attentiveness that we provide at every encounter, so ‘courtesy’ is one of our strengths.”

He adds, “But, I [also have to mention] the cuisine in Bacchus that our Executive Chef Montgomery Lau prepares with his culinary team … we are a culinary-forward hotel with Bacchus being at the very heart of the property.”

Our two meals at Bacchus — dinner and breakfast — were simply spectacular.

The restaurant/lounge at Bacchus is rich and romantic with antique furniture, warm, dark cherry wood and Murano crystal fixtures. A large painting of Bacchus, the Greek god of wine and revelry, presides over the lounge.

The night we dined there, the large, street-facing windows were open to the warm night air and a pianist gently set a backdrop of familiar tunes. We supped on a range of delicately presented seafood, sampling poached steelhead salmon, halibut, pan-roasted scallops and lobster linguine, and sipped sparkling rosé and later a Châteaux La Gorce from the restaurant’s superb Bordeaux selection.

And like the Wickaninnish, the Wedgewood is family owned and operated, with the daughter of founder Eleni Skalbania — Elpie Marinakis Jackson — currently the co-owner and managing director.

Eleni Skalbania founded the Wedgewood in 1984, when she purchased and re-worked an old apartment hotel, transforming it into its current glory.

“We strike the perfect balance between world-class amenities and product with sincere and caring people providing personal service at the highest of levels,” says Glenn.

Indeed, my experience sampling just two of BC’s Relais & Châteaux hotels has me fired up to check out the others.

Boulevard MagazinehotelInnRelais & ChateauxtravelVacationVancouvervancouverislandWedgewood HotelWickaninnish

Get local stories you won't find anywhere else right to your inbox.
Sign up here

Just Posted

Lori Jantz snapped this picture of a fight between a bald eagle and an osprey above Osoyoos Lake on Friday. (Lori Jantz photo)
Battle in the sky erupts above South Okanagan lake

Bald eagle and osprey fight mid-air in Osoyoos

This garbage bin behind a strip mall in Skaha Lake Road was set alight on Friday night at 11 p.m. The foam from firefighters can be seen on the ground. (Facebook)
Dumpster fire comes too close to Penticton seniors’ complex

One resident worries Penticton might have a fire bug

Theo's now delivering to Summerland
Penticton Greek restaurant now delivering to Summerland

Theo’s restaurant is the first to deliver food to Summerland in their ‘Squidmobile’

The Regional District of Okanagan-Similkameen will speed up the process for hospitality businesses looking to set up patios during the latest COVID-19 restrictions. Under the most recent restrictions, indoor dining is prohibited, but patio dining is allowed. (John Arendt - Summerland Review)
Regional District of Okanagan-Similkameen speeds up patio permit approval

Initiative to help hospitality businesses affected by latest COVID-19 restrictions

Firefighters responded to a house fire on Banks Crescent in Summerland on Friday afternoon. The fire began as a stovetop fire but resulted in significant damages. (John Arendt - Summerland Review)
Fire results in damage to Summerland home

Crews called on Friday, April 9 following stovetop fire

B.C. Health Minister Adrian Dix and Premier John Horgan describe vaccine rollout at the legislature, March 29, 2021. (B.C. government)
1,262 more COVID-19 infections in B.C. Friday, 9,574 active cases

Province’s mass vaccination reaches one million people

Highway 97 being converted to four lanes in April 1990. This photo taken in Lake Country. (Greater Vernon Museum and Archives Photo #14025)
HISTORY: How the old Highway 97 in Lake Country got new name

Pelmewash Parkway recognizes the First Nations history in Lake Country

RCMP display some of the fish seized from three suspects who pleaded guilty to violating the Fisheries Act in 2019, in this undated handout photo. THE CANADIAN PRESS/HO - RCMP
3 banned from fishing, holding licences after overfishing violations near Vancouver Island

Mounties seized the group’s 30-foot fishing vessel and all equipment on board at the time

Flight with COVID
Another Kelowna flight with COVID-19 exposure

Westjet flight on April 5 from Kelowna to Edmonton

B.C. Premier John Horgan responds to questions during a postelection news conference in Vancouver, on Sunday, October 25, 2020. British Columbia’s opposition Liberals and Greens acknowledge the COVID-19 pandemic has presented huge challenges for Horgan’s government, but they say Monday’s throne speech must outline a coherent plan for the province’s economic, health, social and environmental future. THE CANADIAN PRESS/Darryl Dyck
Horgan’s NDP to bring in throne speech in B.C., Opposition wants coherent plan

Farnworth said the budget will include details of government investment in communities and infrastructure

FILE - An arena worker removes the net from the ice after the Vancouver Canucks and Calgary Flames NHL hockey game was postponed due to a positive COVID-19 test result, in Vancouver, British Columbia, in this Wednesday, March 31, 2021, file photo. As vaccinations ramp up past a pace of 3 million a day in the U.S, the NHL is in a tougher spot than the other three major North American professional sports leagues because seven of 31 teams are based on Canada. (Darryl Dyck/The Canadian Press via AP, File)
Vancouver Canucks scheduled to practice Sunday, resume games April 16 after COVID outbreak

Canucks outbreak delayed the team’s season by eight games

Two-year-old Ivy McLeod, seen here on April 9, 2021 with four-year-old sister Elena and mom Vanessa, was born with limb differences. The family, including husband/dad Sean McLeod, is looking for a family puppy that also has a limb difference. (Jenna Hauck/ Chilliwack Progress)
B.C. family looking for puppy with limb difference, just like 2-year-old Ivy

Ivy McLeod born as bilateral amputee, now her family wants to find ‘companion’ puppy for her

This illustration provided by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention in January 2020 shows the 2019 Novel Coronavirus.[CDC]
More COVID-19 exposures reported at schools in Kelowna

Interior Health added additional schools and dates to their list of exposures

Most Read